Wondering if u got this problem fixed. I'm having the same issues as you and have no idea what the problem is apart from the possibility of having bad capacitors.
Hi Matt, I have two questions: Did you do any post processing noise removal in your video? If you would remove all your brass meshing would your mic be totally unusable due to noise interference or how bad would it get?
This is my testing setup that has some obvious interference flaws currently, but they seem minor to me. Im doubting it would all get resolved with tighter connections. The DIP8 THAT chips were sold out so I only managed to get the SO8 chip, which happend to be incredibly tiny, making it a pain to solder.
I will soon need a microphone and would like to re-enable yours. On the old forum was a subcategory for an improved version. Unfortunately, I can't find them anymore. Are you making a new video soon or are you showing a new Intervace with Mute and headphone input the next time?
I haven't started anything yet, but I was wondering if there was a way I could skip the pre amp part, and make it an xlr mic instead, I already have an interface but is takes xlr. I look forward to building this but I am also wondering if this mic would be suitable for recording loude wind instruments such as the saxophone, I know that is more of a preference thing, but the world of instrument recording is big and convoluted and I just want something that would be better than an sm58.
Someone already asked for it, but the link seems to have gone bad. Are there any other options for the rotary switch? Only part that I still can't find.
Hello everyone 😀 I'd really like to know if there is a reason as to why not to use a Potentiometer instead of the rotary Switch? Other then that i will have to wait for my Parts to arrive as most of them seem to be rather seldom if you try to source one to one Parts.. but i managed to find a few
Ok the mic works great, but... the audio is too quiet. All parts are the same as the video minus the transistor(I'm using the j111 as its easier to come by and cheaper), my USB audio interface (rc30-0205) yes the razer THX one, and I'm using a few 2w resistors in place of 1/4w.
Issues I've found.
Rotary switch doesn't appear to change volume (gain).
the mic still works when I rotate the THAT 180 in its socket, I find this odd as I have checked its data sheet and I feel like this shouldn't work. I am however an amature at this.
blowing into the mic hard will give me about 15 seconds of clear crisp audio as it slowly fades back to near inaudible. While having the drain and source of the mic hooked up to a multi meter I can see that the voltage goes from 22v after blowing (great loud audio) and fades to 4.5v (quiet). I'm at a loss of why this is.
I've been switching out some of the resistors (shown in images) with lower ones and I get slightly higher base volume. this does however make them very hot when plugged in for a while (15 min) hence the 2w resistors for testing.
I do my testing as shown outside its case with only the mic and its wire insulated in the brass mesh and printed mic capsule housing(black cylinder). I get very minimal interference.
I'm at a loss of how to make the volume increase from here please help.
hi, anyone with more detailed schematic please help me. I want to draw the circuit more clean but I dont know the information of these components. i saw a circuit on fake diy perks bilibili channel, they change a few things, no volume knob.
i want to do the same as the original but the schematic confused me
Hello people, I made the whole circuit but I tried to connect an audio socket to the pre-amp Ground and Out, which I can then connect to the usb audio interface. Here is an image even showing which pins of the socket I used (referenced the datasheet).
I did this so I don't have to snip off the cables from the usb audio interface, leaving it intact just in case.
What I want to know is if this would normally work, assuming everything else works. I've tested this setup and don't hear anything so I want to make sure if the part from the audio socket could be the cause. I suspect I don't have to do anything with the red and white plug from the usb audio interface, do I? The video didn't show exactly how to connect the cables on this part of the build.
This post was modified 10 months ago 2 times by MinHD
@minhd I am using a similar configuration with a 4 pole audio jack and mine works (not great sill but i am getting audio) and what you have going on here should be fine. The red and white plugs are audio left and right and will not be used. if your not getting a signal coming through you may have the wrong pins hooked up. I would also go through with a multimeter and check to make sure all your solder connections are good.
Hello people, I made the whole circuit but I tried to connect an audio socket to the pre-amp Ground and Out, which I can then connect to the usb audio interface. Here is an image even showing which pins of the socket I used (referenced the datasheet).
I did this so I don't have to snip off the cables from the usb audio interface, leaving it intact just in case.
What I want to know is if this would normally work, assuming everything else works. I've tested this setup and don't hear anything so I want to make sure if the part from the audio socket could be the cause. I suspect I don't have to do anything with the red and white plug from the usb audio interface, do I? The video didn't show exactly how to connect the cables on this part of the build.
Wondering that myself. You have 3 options(on the 3,5 jack): left only, right only and both. Try all three?
I tried left and right, maybe both worked not sure but I have only a faint pickup of voice with massive interference. So got to solve the interference first before i dabble on.
This project covers everything from sourcing a good-sounding microphone capsule to building a frame for it and even including a USB interface so it can be used on any modern device whether that be a laptop or a smartphone.
One thing I'm missing. I'm not seeing either in the video or the bill of materials, what size mesh is best for this project. I bought a fine mesh which I *thought* looked right, it's way too fine, and then bought a courser mesh, and it just doesn't look right.
Though, I did find out that you have to be careful which soldier wick you use, some of them are just flat ribbon, others are tubular. Another thing to note is most of them are pre-fluxed, so you either have to carefully work it open, or cook it in a toaster oven at a high enough heat to melt the flux, but not so high that it color changes the metal.
@parker Thanks for the reply. I too believe the audio socket should be fine. I'll try checking the soldering connections and see if something might be wrong there.
@tekken I noticed when comparing your schematic to mine that the two 22uf capacitors on mine are facing the other way with the minus side to the left. Seeing how yours and the ones in the video are facing right I think that might be the cause. I'll fix that and see how that changes things.
a couple of questions have popped up in my attempt to build the microphone. I'm completely new to this and this is my first build, so I apologize in advance if any of this is noob stuff.
First of all, would this build work with polarised 22uF capacitors? If so, where would the poles be?
I was also wondering why the enameled copper wire was only used for the first bit of the cable, couldn't I use the enameled wire all the way? If not, is the desoldering wire soldered to the copper wires in the audio cable? It's not mentioned in the video, so I'd rather ask beforehand.
Lastly, I'd like to exchange the brass with wood, wherever possible. Is the brass ring around the capsule a necessity? It was mentioned that it would act as a grounded shield around the capsule, I guess that wouldn't work with wood.
Thanks in advance!
This post was modified 10 months ago 4 times by DerpFace
@derpface I think you can use the enamelled wire all the way to the preamp and yes you should connect the desoldering wick to ground. (to either a cable or the shielding)
If you connect the 2 capsule meshes together and connect them to ground it should be fine
I'm fairly new to doing this kind of stuff but I'm going Into school for it so I'm hoping to learn a bit more, but I have an issue that I'm not sure how to solve, I've soldered everything together using all the parts listed(except my 22uf capacitors are rated for 100v rather than 35v) but instead of a rotary switch I used a potentiometer, now when I plug everything in except the potentiometer the mic doesn't do anything but when I plug in the potentiometer my mic only works whenever I touch the ground to any sort of metal, but my mic still won't Pick up my voice rather it just pics up the sound of the wire tapping the metal or moving against it, if you have any suggestions please let me know
@redrevo117 I am having a similar problem where instead of a phone resistor I'm using a potentiometer, did you ever figure out and if so what did you do to fix it?
So, im almost done with the build, but two questions have come up:
First, with the audio interface:
When the audio interface was glued down, there were only a red, black and white wire left. (image below)
But only a red wire and a copper wire get plugged in:
So i guess one of them is GND and the other two make up the audio output. Which two of them need to be soldered together to make the audio output?
Second, the breakout board:
My breakout board only has one point each for VBUS and GND, while his has two for each, one for the USB cable and the other to supply power. Can I solder two GND wires to one GND point and two VBUS wires to one VBUS point?
Hi! Ive recreated this circuit in different configurations on the breadboard about 3 times to ensure the board wasnt faulty, also checked extensively for shorts and Ive tested connections with a multimeter. From my readings I could confirm that I was getting 5 volts from the USB, +15V and -15V from the NMA0515SC, and 20V across the transistor. However when I tested the mic I wasnt able to get any sound aside from interference (I could hear a radio station, which from my understanding means that the audio was successfully being converted to digital?) However I was unable to pick up any noise from the capsule.
The main differences between my circuit and the official as far as I can tell is that I'm using a J111, a breadboard, and my resistor values are slightly different (I originally had more resistors in series to add up to the original number but took them out to troubleshoot). I used to have a mesh surrounding the system to block interference but I took it down when I wasnt getting any audio. The below diagram is a recreation of my breadboard. I forgot the two 100 ohm resistors in the diagram though but thats the only error I can spot so far.
I tested bypassing the audio capture card and hooked some leads to an aux cable and was able to get more sound and a burst of audio when blowing hard on the capsule, however it was all static and not consistent and I was unable to get any sound after ~3 seconds. I have 2 THAT1512s and I have tried both with similar results. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this so I can get usable sound? Thanks in advance. 🙂
I manage to build the mic and it works perfectly, 3 and 4 were reversed on my build though so I assumed there was an error and followed the wiring diagram.
Hello, basically never done PCBs or electronics before, I was wondering why the 22uf non-polarised capacitors connected to the THAT 1512 V+ (to drain) and V- (to source) and Audio output do? Are they for decoupling? Also, should I connect the Mic capsule GND to the GND of the preamp? (nvrmd just realized I read things wrong lol this question don't make sense)
This post was modified 8 months ago 2 times by BIO.S
