[Sticky] Earbuds to Dual-Wireless Stereo Speakers (official topic)

Hi,

Any info with soldering to the amp from the Galaxy Buds Plus? They have an extra 2 solder pads when removing the speakers from the buds.

Thanks

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has a diagram of the wiring from the earbuds onto the board that is clearer to see than re watching the video on slow mode? Even just a picture that shows the wires and a brief description of the wiring would help 

For the last several months I have been attempting to build this set of speakers exactly as shown in the video and in the plans that I received from my DIY Perks account on Patreon. However, there are several key elements of this project, shown in the video, that are not mentioned in either the video, the PDF document instructions, or the SVG files. In the downloaded file there is no materials list, equipment list, nor a complete parts list.

The speakers that are "highly recommended" have screw holes to attach them to the finished walnut board, but the speakers don't actually come with screws of any type. What size screw should be used for each of the two types of speakers?

Also, shown in the video, but not clearly explained is the putty used for the "good seal around" each speaker. I have never seen nor come across this putty and have no idea as to how to obtain it. What is this stuff? Where can it be found online?

In the video we are advised to add threaded inserts to the bottom for the feet to be screwed into. Where might one obtain said inserts? Which size? Also, there are the "feet" for the speakers. Which type are used in the video, and where can those be purchased?

When mounting the Amplifier to the MDF there are copper offsets that are used to lift the circuit from the MDF, where might these be purchased? Additionally, a tool is used to screw those copper offsets onto the MDF what is the name of that tool? Any recommendations as to where it can be found online?

Additionally, in the video there is "another bit of MDF" that is used to divide the speaker housing internally. As this bit of MDF contains the amplifier as well as other important components for this project. What are the exact dimensions of that piece of MDF?

Towards the finish of the build, we are shown that the battery pack has been glued to a "bit of wood that can fit onto the back panel". The video then shows that a square has been cut from the back panel. However, not in the video, SVG files, nor the PDF instructions show how this is completed, how is this done?

As a person who is new to DIY and that supported this YouTube channel through Patreon it seems to me that all these matters would be commented on and direction on how to complete this project. All materials that were directly mentioned or were clearly identifiable have been purchased at no small cost, I am greatly disappointed that due to the lack of detail provided I cannot complete it.

So I have a pair of old Centrex by Pioneer 8” 2-Way floor speakers that I’m rebuilding. Is there any changes I have to make to the items I use, if I want to convert them into wireless speakers like the ones in the video?

Im not interested in building this. But I have some interest in the cross overs built. Is there anyway just this info could be shared. 

As I finished watching the video, the thought occured to me that the video did not discuss how I pair the speakers to a device.  Maybe I want it paired to my AppleTV or some other source.  I do not recall seeing these buttons discussed and where they were located on the speaker.  All I remember is that the earbud was glued to the speaker wall board but no mention of pairing.

Did I miss something?

I actually didn't cover that because different buds pair in different ways. For the Galaxy Buds, you hold down both capacitive pads I believe which then puts it into pairing mode.

@diyperks i was thinking of adding buttons to the speaker to mimic the buttons on the earbud.  No matter how it is done, if I simply extend the button from the earbud (by way of electrical connection) then I would follow the manufactures instructions for paring, right?

That's correct! If you're using Galaxy Buds though extending them is more tricky as they aren't 'switches'. You'd be better off drilling a hole on the back for the bud's pad to be accessed through.

So by holding down both capacitive pads, do you mean that when pressed, the capacitor is grounded out?  If I made them into buttons where one side of the button is ground and the other one capacitive pad  and do likewise to the other pad, then pressing them both on the speaker, does that  not perform the same action?

Guess i need to watch the video again or get another ear bud and tear into it.  🙂

I'm not actually sure how they work to be honest, but you have made an interesting suggestion. It would be worth experimenting with for sure!

I was just wondering if there are any other alternatives to the subwoofer, radiator and mid/treble unit as I'm not in the US or UK and am in Canada.

Has Anyone pulled this of whith Airpods?

Hey @DIY Perks. I have made the speaker case and am onto the wiring. The amp and earbuds power on and connect. But no sound is coming out. I’m not sure if it’s the filter  but that’s what I suspect. I have followed the build guide exact so am unsure what to do to make it work. Do you have a way of just simply wiring it without the filter to test? Or another solution?

@kryten3000

"The speakers that are "highly recommended" have screw holes to attach them to the finished walnut board, but the speakers don't actually come with screws of any type. What size screw should be used for each of the two types of speakers?"

• This will largely depend upon the thickness of the material you're using for the front panel. The thickness will define the length of screws used. As these will be relatively short in most cases, you're better off looking for coarse thread screws... old PSU mounting screws work well. Or similar metal fixing screws. Screws with flat points/blunt ends are fine to use but you'll need to drill pilot holes to the size of the screw shaft/shank (the diameter of the screw if the threads were removed). Here's a possible link to 20x 6-32 6mm Coarse PC Computer Case Expansion Card PSU Screws

Personally I prefer to insert threaded studs into the wooden panels using epoxy resin. This reduces the risk of damage to the panel when unscrewing/screwing the screws over time to replace or upgrade speakers. The speakers can then be held in place using nuts and washers. Using nylon nuts will reducethe risk of them coming looseover time. Link to M3 threaded rod and M3 Nylon Nuts. 

"I have never seen nor come across this putty and have no idea as to how to obtain it. What is this stuff? Where can it be found online?"

• Loads of options here. If you want a permanent installation... then go with Milliput 2 part compound. This sets rock solid and can be smoothed with a moist cloth or finger.

For a less permanent seal that can be removed if needed... just a silicone sealant. Like this one.

You can also use a neoprene foam and create a gasket which goes between the speaker and mounting panel. I use this one for car speaker installs in either 2mm or 3mm thickness. Also helps to reduce unwanted vibration.

"In the video we are advised to add threaded inserts to the bottom for the feet to be screwed into. Where might one obtain said inserts?"

• Size will depend on 2 factors;

1. Thickness of panel material will define the length of insert.

2. Internal dimension will depend on the feet you use.

Here's a link to the ones I generally use for anything below M8 threads. These are screwed into a pilot hole using an Allen key.

"Also, there are the "feet" for the speakers. Which type are used in the video, and where can those be purchased?"

Various options here that will largely depend on the aesthetic you're looking for. Here's some I've used on similar projects. These are self adhesive and adjustable.

Slight overkill on such small speakers so you could easily use small adhesive rubber feet like these and get an equal effect.

"When mounting the Amplifier to the MDF there are copper offsets that are used to lift the circuit from the MDF, where might these be purchased?"

• These are PCB standoffs. Here's a link to get you started.

"Additionally, a tool is used to screw those copper offsets onto the MDF what is the name of that tool?"

• The tool used is a hex bit on a screwdriver. Any hex socket, spanner or similar will work. The PCB is mounted over the male threads on a nut is then used to hold the PCB to the standoff. The Nylon nuts linked earlier will work just as well.

Hey @diyperks! What was the exact switch that you used for the video as I am not too sure as to which one I should buy. I have tried finding double gang switches but I can not find ones that are similar to the ones used in the video.

Hello, both the speakers used in the video are not available in my country so can someone recommend me what type of speaker can I use ?. Which is also affordable 

hi

I'm currently attempting to make this project and I was wondering if anyone has a diagram for the build.

thanks

Hi! How did you desolder the earbud speaker as I have tried to do it and it just won’t work.

The gotcha with this one is you need the same design of bud - and there are  LOT of them - as the wise man said, the great thing about standards is there are so many to choose from.

@marcdraco I do have the exact same earbuds though.

Well that helps of course. Flexy PCBs are notoriously fragile (if incredibly useful). This isn't the sort of thing for the feint of heart and you'll really need a temperature controlled iron with a sub-1mm tip. 

You might find it helps to add either some rework flux or (counterintuitively) some more *leaded* solder with a decent level of flux. Lead free stuff is better for the environment and us but it doesn't flow well which can mean that the thermal connection is insufficient to release the speaker.

Greetings!

Stumbled upon the vid last year, saved some money for the Tang Bands and started working on the project. Took me about 2 months with every other evening working on it.

Sadly, the SVG and every picture has wrong data and is cut. Dunno if @diyperks is aware of that, although it was mentioned. On top of that, he built a 75mm wide and approx. 150-200 mm tall speaker pair. The one in the provided data is 100mm wide and above 200 mm tall.

I changed my electronics setup a little bit - went with a little slot in the back part, wired a USB-Charger into it and mounted a plate with isolation band on top. USB-C Charger and a Switch onto that - good to go. Thinking about adding an LED to that plate in the end for charging state visibility. The battery (LiPo flat cell) is mounted inside. Supplying the bud directly and stepping up the voltage to 12V for the Amp and everything works nice.

I didn't recognize the noise of the amp in my initial tests. In the final piece, you can clearly hear some high pitch noise on the TecTonic Speaker - on both speakers. My first guess: The step-up converter inducing noise...

So I ordered two more TPA3110 XH-A232 boards for testing. It didn't need that much testing - hooked them up to my lab bench power supply, onto some old PC Speakers - Noise. Even without any input signal there is noise. Tried another power supply - same noise. I ordered some filters ( https://amzn.eu/d/1s4AXU5) and hooked them between the speakers and the amp - look at that! The noise is gone!

So, hooking up a signal and.. the volume is very low. Without the filter, alright, with it - low. As soon as you raise the volume above ~30-40% on the phone, something in the circuit starts failing. Lab Bench Power Supply shows under 0.25 Amps being drawn at that moment and it mostly happens when a song gets louder, bass or heavy guitars kick in. It just starts spitting out popping sounds from the speakers. The LED on the Amp is not flashing or anything but the lab bench power supply shows a drop in current (not voltage!)

Sooo... the discussions about the TPA3110 XH-A232 are mostly from India, no one really talks about the noise problem (which all units seem to have?). And I can't find any real datasheet to find the "gain" resistors mentioned in possible solutions.

I'd be really glad to get some help from anyone who is familiar with noise in audio-setups, maybe even experienced with the TPA3110 XH-A232 amp.