MODERATOR NOTE: CAUTION: DO NOT TRY THIS YOURSELF UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES
==== and now over to the OP =====
A Philips TV with a dying leds. I soldered a different kind of LED in place of the original ones, the stock ones ran at like 90mA and the replacements are like 140mA. But it would only light up the LEDs for a moment, then no power going to the led after that while the LCD and the rest of the TV was functioning.
Eventually I remembered circumvention I did to another LG TV with the same issue of the PSU not sending power to the backlight. That was connecting the negative LED contact to ground.
I did the same with this philips tv, just jumped across from LED- to a screw going into the metal frame of the LCD which I assume is the isolated DC ground. And the backlight started powering on and the TV seems to work just fine.
Maybe something happened with the psu while I was troubleshooting the original led, cause at first they were lighting up for longer when I connected the power and then it only started lighting up for only an instant, same as with all new led.
So I don't understand what could be holding back the power supply from sending power to the backlight. Is something fried in the path of LED- to the Ground or is it a built in lockout if the circuit does measure something specific?
The Philips seems to be a voltage regulated circuit with 4 led strips in parallel. But the same sort of thing happened with the LG TV which was current regulated.
I’m going to let this thread stand, but I can’t advise on bypassing protection circuits.
Modern TV backlight supplies are high-voltage, isolated constant-current drivers with fault detection built in. When they shut down, it’s usually because something is outside normal operating limits. Strapping LED- to chassis defeats part of that protection.
You’re working in a section of the set that can involve 60–200 V DC and potentially higher transients. That’s not beginner territory.
I don’t teach live troubleshooting on mains-powered gear because I can’t control the environment, tools, or experience level. Working inside a TV without schematics, isolation, and proper test setup can be dangerous to you and destructive to the set.
If repair is the goal, replacing the correct LED strips or the entire backlight driver module is the safer route. Fully reassemble before applying power.
Please treat mains and high-voltage DC sections with respect. They don’t forgive mistakes.
Take everything I say with a pinch of salt, I might be wrong and it's a very *expensive* way to learn!
I am not here to try troubleshoot live circuits or repair circuits, except for maybe replacing a fuse or diode. I just want to understand these circuits better so I can know what to expect out of them as is, not to try to fix or circumvent them as I did in this case, I'd like to avoid doing this bypass, repairing a TV like this is hardly worth the money in parts or the time I put into it. I'm just curious and I do want to take every precaution before I go ahead trying something like this again.
I really feel where you are here and I hate to be that guy (I really do) and I most definitely don't want you to stop learning! Trouble is if you want to learn stuff, being dead is contraindicated.
"I didn't get where I am today by not learning new stuff!" - it's an old joke from British TV, sorry if that doesn't land... anyway...
Most "techs" don't even replace a part on these boards when they blow. It's often cheaper (in real terms, think diagnostic labour etc.) to say:
Does X board work - if no, replace. If yes go to next board and repeat as necessary.
That usually means two or three boards in a modern TV. Nothing obviously dangerous, esp. when turned off.
Only: power boards can kill you stone dead (sometimes) hours after power down. Drivers too can be spikey little beggars.
Likelihood of this happening to you personally? Given the prior data I have my Beysian tail says... unlikely. But it's not just you here my (and ultimate everyone in this space) out responsibility is to be as responsible as possible.
Breaking something in the Ultimate USB-Mic isn't going to be cheap, but it won't result in a funeral with just a box of ash where the casket might otherwise be.
Now imagine I had in front of me the schematic for that board (and the correct revision just be sure) and I tell you in some detail what to probe for, etc. two things happen, you learn almost nothing so that's no damn help and worse some other poor sod comes here a decade later and is instantly zapped into the back end of oblivion
Does my apparent over abundance of caution make more sense now?
I don't like to shill stuff that hasn't materialised yet, but I'm about 1/4 way through writing a book that should appeal to you, particularly if you're a fan of Terry Pratchett/Douglas Adams. While it's 100% serious science there's a very comedic theme running throughout and almost zero mathematics. I mean really, beyond a few ratios dotted here and there, you'll discover some astonishing things - and some that will make your brain want to take its ball and go home.
I've already done much of the cosmology section so that describes everything (not in detail) from about 1 Planck time to now - and shows how atoms form, what they are made of and ultimately what you and I are. And when I saw the astonishing beauty of it, I really did shed a tear. It's mind expanding in a way that no drug can come close to.
If it works out according to plan (writing is far more my wheelhouse than electronic design) by the end of the book you'll not only know HOW components from valves to FETS work but WHY they are forced to work the way they do. Everything from quantum superposition in tunnel diodes to stuff that makes zero sense in classical terms.
All without so much as a funny sideways stare from Wolfgang Pauli and Maxwell mostly remembered for his impressive facial hair.
Take everything I say with a pinch of salt, I might be wrong and it's a very *expensive* way to learn!
Understood. Feel free to take down this topic. Perhaps I'm in over my head.



