I have a MSI GS73 Stealth 8RF gaming laptop that overheats like no tomorrow even though it has been underclocked and undervolted with hinges that have broken beyond repair. I came across the Damaged laptop to all in one pc video and it seems to be the best option for me.
I'm confident about the majority of the process involving moving the components and fixing them on PCB spacers/pillars but the part I need help is the Powering on part. I have no prior knowledge on how relays work and even after some self educating I'm still confused on what kind of Relay was used or what kind I would need and how the wiring was done for the relay to work the way it did in the video.
I would really appreciate if someone can explain how the wringing was done like explaining which wire is soldered onto the common contact for example.
Thank youÂ
Xavier
Welcome to the forums. One of the gotchas with this sort of thing is that while all laptops are broadly similar, they all have specific little bits here and there that can trip you up.
Rather than look at that now, can you let us know where you are in the project. For example have you cracked open the shell and lid to get at the parts or is it still in one(ish) piece?
The overheating is probably caused by the heat-conductive silicone squeezing out of the CPU and perhaps other parts like the GPU. This is a common fault across many designs and tends to get worse with age and use.
This is the first thing you need to address or you'll end up with an all-in-one that will still overheat.
Take everything I say with a pinch of salt, I might be wrong and it's a very *expensive* way to learn!
Welcome to the forums. One of the gotchas with this sort of thing is that while all laptops are broadly similar, they all have specific little bits here and there that can trip you up.
Rather than look at that now, can you let us know where you are in the project. For example have you cracked open the shell and lid to get at the parts or is it still in one(ish) piece?
The overheating is probably caused by the heat-conductive silicone squeezing out of the CPU and perhaps other parts like the GPU. This is a common fault across many designs and tends to get worse with age and use.
This is the first thing you need to address or you'll end up with an all-in-one that will still overheat.
Take everything I say with a pinch of salt, I might be wrong and it's a very *expensive* way to learn!
@marcdraco I have opened the laptop and everything inside is completely intact, its just that the body of the laptop was made with cheap plastic so it overheats no matter what unless I keep the fans running on max speed but even that isn't sustainable because I've had to replace the fan twice now. I did replace the silicone recently and the thermal paste but even that yielded little results cause the temperature is still shooting upto 85 degrees Celsius when I game.
I'm confident that there should be significant change in temp if i discard the jam packed body of the laptop.
@xavier541 there are cooling fans and then there are cooling fans. It's quite normal for some laptops to run a standard fan 100% and a core temp of 85 C isn't massively high for an i7. Intel consider anything up to 100C normal.Â
I expect the i7 is soldered to the board and that's the real worry for higher temperatures. It's not that the chip will conk out, as I recall, Intel and AMD have been thermally auto throttling for many years now. In essence the chip will reduce its running speed to prevent itself from overheating. The constant increase and decrease in temperature causes the solder balls to fail.
All this is moot of course because what you deserve is a quiet machine. I have a 13th gen i7 and it is damn loud unless I turn the fans off. I think Intel take us for fools sometimes. I can't be much help with quieter fans (even though I have one, I can't recall the model).
But let's get down to brass tacks and lead solder. 😉
Can you get some photos of the board (both sides) and something as close as practical where the main power comes in. Ground (or 0V) will be on the outer shell. There may be one or two others - the high current and (on some machines, a charge-feedback cable).
We can take it up from there. How does that sound?
Take everything I say with a pinch of salt, I might be wrong and it's a very *expensive* way to learn!